etune extractor lens voltages positive and negative. What should they be?

The etune tune ion peak width target for 69-219-502, Pw50, is 0.6 amu.  If the tune ion peak abundances - 69 between 400-600k, 219 >35% of 69, 502 >2.5% of 69, and the tune ion peak shapes are good - symmetrical, gaussian mostly, not splitting/fronting/tailing, and the isotope peaks at 70-220-503 are nearly baseline separated, that means the quadrupole is working.  The ions themselves are always exact mass - 68.9947, 218.9851, and 501.9706.  The tune ion peak shape is a distribution curve based on the limitations of a quadrupole mass spectrometer.

One quad related parameter that can affect the tune ion peak shape, tune ion ratios somewhat, and tune ion abundances, is the quadrupole polarity.  One opposing pair of the 'rods' has a positive DC offset applied and one has a negative (or less positive) offset applied.  This Positive or Negative polarity is a setting that is related to your instrument's specific hardware.   A huge preponderance of the time the systems ship with Positive polarity selected but sometimes, over time and use, a Negative polarity setting (or the opposite of what was chosen at shipment) may give slightly better tune ion peak shape, or slightly bettter/different tune ion relative response, or slightly higher ion throughput as seen by a lower EMV - or some combination of all three.  Check out the Quad Polarity document in the Files section of this forum.

The ion source body/ionization chamber, repeller and extractor lens are working together differently inside an Extractor Ion Source than they do in the Stainless-Steel non-extractor source or the Extractor Ion Source run in Atune instead of Etune. The voltages interact to push/pull the positive ions out of the ionization chamber, but it's not as simple as the repeller pushes and the extractor pulls, since the ion body voltage pushes the ions towards the center of the ionization chamber as well. There is a lot of interaction which depends on cleanliness, insulators, column flow, gas choice, column positioning, and more.  

That means that there are more things to check. Remove the source and take it apart. Clean the required metal pieces thoroughly, every surface, edge, window, nook, and cranny, inside and outside following the information in the manuals, the guide in the Files section on this forum, and the videos available here, registration required-- Eliminate the Fear of Mass Spec   . Thorough is much more important than how hard you scrub!   I would suggest replacing both repeller insulators, the extractor insulator, the lens stack insulator, and the brown extractor lens wire.  Wipe all surfaces of the repeller heater/sensor block with a solvent wetted lint-free cloth while the repeller is being cleaned, too.   Make sure that the pins on the lenses are cleaned as well, being careful not to bend them.  Verify that the green wire from the ceramic source connector board is connected to the pin at the base of the source radiator - that's the source body connection. I would unplug and plug it back on. Then put it all back together, pump it down, waiting long enough for good vacuum and thermal stability, about two hours or more, and then test it.

and let us know if that helped.